Steps For Preparing A Shower Pan

Step One:

All shower pans must be blocked in solid! Wood blocking should be installed between studs at a height of no less than 10" with no large gaps. Any lumber can be used for this process just as long as its solid. In the event of plumbing or structural gaps, a piece of medium gauge sheet metal would be sufficient to cover the void so your shower pan will last you decades.

Hot mop can adhere to most building materials such as: concrete walls, bricks, backer boards drywall and sheet metal. Just as long as they are solid and fastened or anchored properly for this prevents shifting or cracking of the hot mop. All seats, pony walls, and tub ledges must follow this same blocking procedure so they can also be sealed properly.

Step Two:

All drains must be installed with the lower flange flush or level with the wood sub-floor / concrete foundation. Drains vary from cast iron to plastic, both are acceptable for hot mop. Two and three piece drains are available. Three piece drains are recommended for "walk - in" type or handicap showers. Specialty drains such as trough drains will have to be inspected by Masterkraft Custom Shower Pans before an agreement to hot mop can be made. Most trough drains can be properly sealed if installed by a waterproofing specialist.

Step Three:

The dam or curb is the part that one steps over to enter the shower pan. The dam must be a minimum of 4 1/2'' in height or at least 2" above the top of the drain screen. All dams or curbs are sealed inside as well as outside to protect from migrating moisture. The only way to design a curbless shower is to recess the shower pan sub-floor at least 3" lower than the exterior floor. Or you can extend the waterproofing outside the bath area onto the bathroom floor.

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